Making Cosmetics Milan

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We are very excited to be published in the latest Fall-Winter issue of the Italian magazine Make Up Technology. The article highlights the formulating properties of our POLYNAT®T11. If you want to discover its surprising benefits come to the Booth 304 during the Making Cosmetics exhibition (25-26 of November) in Milan alongside our exclusive distributor Active Up.

An innovative conformation for properties that act in synergy

Market introduction

After experiencing a period of strong sales growth between 2015 and 2018, the overall complexion and makeup market has collapsed since the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic. The beauty industry as a whole has been transformed over the past two years. “Skinimalism » is becoming a recurring habit in beauty routines. Two factors explain this acceleration. First, the average consumer budget has shrunk and refocused on cleaner formulations. A brand that claims a reduced INCI list, natural and vegetal ingredients as well as greater transparency will sustain its clientele and attract other consumers. Hybrid makeup products combine readable and short formulas with an increasingly essential multifunctionality. Serum de teint will be the accomplice of your confidence by taking care of your skin while respecting your natural complexion.

The strong emergence of the Green and Clean Beauty trends is a gas pedal of innovation for the make-up offer. Indeed, for more than twenty years, the technical benefits of foundations have been supported by synthetic ingredients. If brands want to follow the natural trend, they must adopt new formulatory reflexes.

Serum de teint is an oil-in-water emulsion, representing a tiny part of the complexion products market, unlike water-in-oil emulsions that have met consumers’ technical expectations to date, thanks to the use of silicones. Attaining over 99% naturalness, it offers a sensorial formula (read the formula below), easy to apply with a homogeneous and comfortable result. Its spreading power gives a unique sensation of comfort and freshness upon application while bringing a natural luminosity to your complexion.

Composition and technical specifications

Dried exudation obtained from the stems and branches of natural strains of Astragalus gummifer and other Asiatic species (family Leguminosae E413.

Water soluble.

INCI Name : Astragalus Gummifer Gum

POLYNAT®T11 is a 100% plant-based mixed gum composed of a water-soluble fraction (tragacanthin) and an insoluble fraction (bassorin). This unique and innovative mixed conformation gives it texturizing, co-emulsifying and stabilizing properties, which act in synergy to perfectly stabilize a multitude of galenics.

In the Serum de teint formula, it also acts as a co-emulsifier for perfect stabilization of the fluid formula. It strongly contributes to keeping pigments in suspension and revolutionizes the technical field of possibilities by allowing formulators to push back the limits, without compromising on the quality and sensoriality of their galenics.


A plant-based gelling agent

POLYNAT® T11 is cold soluble. The tragacanth gum will hydrate in cold or hot water to give a textured solution at low concentration.

Its wide range of use leaves room for a varied development possibility. Low dosages will allow you to texturize waters and highlight the unique sensory properties* of this gum. From 0.5%, you will stabilize your emulsions, allowing you to obtain fluid and light emulsions. Higher dosages will allow you to formulate gelled galenics even under extreme conditions.

A co-emulsifying and stabilizer agent

POLYNAT®T11 has well-defined surface activity properties. These co-emulsifying properties produce a rapid lowering of the surface tension of water at low concentrations (from 0.25%) and facilitate emulsification. Indeed, the soluble fraction of the gum, tragacanthin, adsorbs at the water/oil interphase causing a reduction of the interfacial tension. This results in the formation of fine droplets, thus improving the stability of the emulsion.

The insoluble fraction, bassorin, has the property to modify the rheology of the system. This fraction increases the viscosity of the aqueous phase, creating a steric hindrance that contributes to the stabilization of emulsions by limiting the movement of emulsified oil droplets. This fraction stands out in particular by its unique and innovative structure. Indeed, the bassorin will swell in contact with water, and is partly observable in the form of gel clusters. These grains will come to dislocate under the finger during the application of the galenic on your skin and are responsible for the fresh and ultra soft texture of the Tragacanth Gum.

Suspensive properties

The soluble fraction of the gum forms a hydro-colloidal suspension. This molecular network is kept stable by an electrostatic and steric repulsion mechanism and will trap the pigments, disperse them homogeneously in solution and ensure their perfect suspension over time.

The main role of Bassorine, the water-swellable fraction, is to increase the viscosity of the aqueous phase. This viscosity will hinder the mobility of the previously formed network and will improve its suspension.  

Thus, POLYNAT® T11 allows a homogeneous and stable suspension of the pigments. This property is also emphasized during the application of Serum de teint. With natural coverage, this tinted serum evens out the complexion while providing comfort to the skin. The spreading facilitated by the slippery texture of POLYNAT® T11 allows a homogeneous and uniform application.

An independent laboratory conducted a self-evaluation questionnaire for CARAGUM® on a panel of 20 people (dry skin selected and no face application in the morning) to demonstrate the film-forming and sensory effect of POLYNAT®T11. The results show that it tends to improve the skin’s barrier function after 2 hours of application. These results were confirmed after 4 and 6 hours of application. 92% of the volunteers felt a sensation of comfort when using the product.

  • 63% of the volunteers noticed that their skin was more radiant at the end of the 6 hours.
  • 89% of the volunteers find that their skin is softer at the end of the 6 hours.
  • 79% of volunteers feel their skin is protected by a film at the end of 6 hours.
  • 90% of the volunteers find that their skin is moisturized at the end of 6 hours.

The multi-functional behaviour of the POLYNAT®T11 allows it to be considered in many formulas ranging from skin care to make-up, including hygiene and hair care products.

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